Hi there!
I have the above keyboard. Unfortunately it has "died" together with USB connector in my notebook (a short circuit as far as I can tell). The USB connector was an easy thing to fix (had a spare dead motherboard from the same notebook). However things are much more complicated with the Apple keyboard.
So here I have a dead expensive keyboard that is not designed to be disassembled and repaired (at least so it seem judging from how it's made). As I can't (ATM) afford to buy a replacement (even used ones are quite expensive), the only thing left was to repair it. As usual Google is my friend. Found this page:
http://www.brunerd.c...43-disassembly/
Opened the keyboard and found that the controller PCB is toasted. While the donor keyboard bought for parts (sold as faulty with "only few keys not working") had the PCB working, at the same time it was also not 100% OK. About 6 keys doesn't work at all (no not the F* keys)...
So her is an instruction how I did the disassembly (with many pics
). Maybe someone might find this information useful/entertaining.
Tools needed:
A putty knife
A Philips screwdriver #1
A solder aid tool (Spudger)
A soldering iron (optional; needed if you want to remove the USB cable/wire)
Precautions:
DON NOT USE PUTTY KNIFE IN THE AREA SHOW HERE!!!
This area contains PCB and a thin film with traces. These things are easy to damage!
Be careful handling putty knife - it's sharp.
Be gentle but firm, as plastic things tend to brake then a brute force is applied.
The first step is to find the point where the plastic bottom part may be lift slightly to insert a putty knife. Most likely it would be either in the middle (just near the text), or in left/right corner. Then the weak spot is located, insert a putty knife there and push it inside the keyboard tilting the knife left to right (or right to left if you like). Like this:
The first things to separate, are the side parts (near the two USB connectors).
Then this step is complete, the rest should come off with less resistance.
Using the same method proceed along the perimeter of your keyboard. Again there is no need to rush. Eventually you should reach the point when a putty knife would reach the PCB area. At this point, the top and the bottom parts can not yet be separated completely.
Be careful, as these two parts are connected together. Just open it like a book. If all went well you should get this:
or this:
The difference is where a reinforcement steel plate (the grey area in both pics) is located. It may stick to the bottom plastic part or to the metal backplate of keys. I guess it depends on which adhesive layer is weaker (as the reinforcement steel plate has adhesive layers on both sides).
Now it's time to remove the PCB. Take a screwdriver and unscrew these four Philips screws
Then lift the USB connector side of the board sliding it towards center of the keyboard.
Repeat for both USB connectors. The PCB should now be off the bottom plastic part.
After you are done with screws and PCB, take a Spudger and disconnect the conductive film ends by releasing the two ZIF (zerro insertion force) connectors
Now remove the plastic part preventing the USB wire (the one that is connected to a computer) and unsolder it from the PCB
Note that this wire is also held in place by a dent in the metal inserted in the bottom plastic casing and is also wrapped in to EMI protection foil attached to reinforcement steel plate.
That's all for now.
To be continued...
source
I have the above keyboard. Unfortunately it has "died" together with USB connector in my notebook (a short circuit as far as I can tell). The USB connector was an easy thing to fix (had a spare dead motherboard from the same notebook). However things are much more complicated with the Apple keyboard.
So here I have a dead expensive keyboard that is not designed to be disassembled and repaired (at least so it seem judging from how it's made). As I can't (ATM) afford to buy a replacement (even used ones are quite expensive), the only thing left was to repair it. As usual Google is my friend. Found this page:
http://www.brunerd.c...43-disassembly/
Opened the keyboard and found that the controller PCB is toasted. While the donor keyboard bought for parts (sold as faulty with "only few keys not working") had the PCB working, at the same time it was also not 100% OK. About 6 keys doesn't work at all (no not the F* keys)...
So her is an instruction how I did the disassembly (with many pics
). Maybe someone might find this information useful/entertaining.Tools needed:
A putty knife
A Philips screwdriver #1
A solder aid tool (Spudger)
A soldering iron (optional; needed if you want to remove the USB cable/wire)
Precautions:
DON NOT USE PUTTY KNIFE IN THE AREA SHOW HERE!!!
This area contains PCB and a thin film with traces. These things are easy to damage!
Be careful handling putty knife - it's sharp.
Be gentle but firm, as plastic things tend to brake then a brute force is applied.
The first step is to find the point where the plastic bottom part may be lift slightly to insert a putty knife. Most likely it would be either in the middle (just near the text), or in left/right corner. Then the weak spot is located, insert a putty knife there and push it inside the keyboard tilting the knife left to right (or right to left if you like). Like this:
The first things to separate, are the side parts (near the two USB connectors).
Then this step is complete, the rest should come off with less resistance.
Using the same method proceed along the perimeter of your keyboard. Again there is no need to rush. Eventually you should reach the point when a putty knife would reach the PCB area. At this point, the top and the bottom parts can not yet be separated completely.
Be careful, as these two parts are connected together. Just open it like a book. If all went well you should get this:
or this:
The difference is where a reinforcement steel plate (the grey area in both pics) is located. It may stick to the bottom plastic part or to the metal backplate of keys. I guess it depends on which adhesive layer is weaker (as the reinforcement steel plate has adhesive layers on both sides).
Now it's time to remove the PCB. Take a screwdriver and unscrew these four Philips screws
Then lift the USB connector side of the board sliding it towards center of the keyboard.
Repeat for both USB connectors. The PCB should now be off the bottom plastic part.
After you are done with screws and PCB, take a Spudger and disconnect the conductive film ends by releasing the two ZIF (zerro insertion force) connectors
Now remove the plastic part preventing the USB wire (the one that is connected to a computer) and unsolder it from the PCB
Note that this wire is also held in place by a dent in the metal inserted in the bottom plastic casing and is also wrapped in to EMI protection foil attached to reinforcement steel plate.
That's all for now.
To be continued...
source
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